I tried Greater Manchester's unlikely new fine-dining spot in magnificent setting like no other

The Grade I listed, neo-Gothic  building is one of the most important in Greater Manchester. Steeped in history, there is something beautiful to look at within every room, whether that be stained glass windows, frescoes, intricate stonework, word carvings and tiled floors. And since it reopened after wide-scale refurbishment in March, it has been welcoming guests for public and private events, including everything from weddings and guided history tours. 

But there’s another reason to visit. The Martlet is the new restaurant located on the ground floor of the Town Hall. By day, it offers a ‘Cafe Luxe’ menu of traditional northern dishes, as well as brunches and afternoon tea. And now it will be opening on Friday and Saturday evenings for a fine dining experience that is sure to get the foodies flocking in from near and far.

We were lucky enough to be invited to a preview of the new evening menu ahead of its official launch on Friday 27 September. Here is a taster of what you can expect. 

What to expect

The name Martlet is a reference to the mythical bird that features on the Rochdale coat of arms and the town’s heritage is a theme that runs throughout the decor. There’s a series of line drawing artworks hanging on the wall that depict various other aspects of the town’s heraldry. And the room’s original colour scheme – deep reds and greens – has also been preserved in a nod to its former life as a judges’ retiring room. 

But there is an elegant, modern feel to this historic room as well, with muted metallic finishes and dark wooden features. It has a variety of seating, including cosy booths, a long communal table at the centre, and comfy sofas, which makes it perfect for any time of day. During our evening visit, the low, soft lighting also made the experience feel that little bit more intimate. 

We were treated to a sample of the signature dishes on the menu, which has been designed by Rochdale-born head chef Darren Parkinson with local cuisine in mind. We tried two starters – the mackerel and Whitby crab pate, which was light and creamy, expertly complimented by tangy Granny Smith apple, sorrel, pickled cucumber, served with sourdough croutons; and the butternut squash soup that had an earthy dock pudding – one of the local delicacies central to the menu’s concept – hidden within it. 

Before our mains arrived, we were served an unexpected middle course, a warming pork and black bean cassoulet topped with a goat's cheese foam that married well with the richness of the cassoulet. The main event was the beef wellington. The meat was beautifully soft, surrounded by thin and precise layers of duxelle mushrooms, air-dried ham and pastry. It was served with crisp, salty hasselback potatoes, carrots and a savoury madeira sauce. For dessert, we had a selection of Grandpa Greene’s ice cream. Again championing local produce, the Saddleworth-based ice cream company is known throughout the region as one of the best and with good reason. 

The verdict

Rochdale, like many Greater Manchester towns, is on the brink of change with massive regeneration plans in the works. The opening of The Martlet is the next step in this transformation, which started last year with the reopening of the magnificent Town Hall. While people may not associate Rochdale with fine-dining, it’s new openings like this which prove that Spinningfields is not the only place in Greater Manchester where you’ll find high-quality, innovative food. The food at the Martlet is both hearty and elegant, and the setting is unlike anything else you find in the city centre. There are fantastic things happening in the boroughs and they deserve your attention.